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It’s 2am on Saturday morning as we stagger out of Ronnie Scott’s, Soho - though the surrounding atmosphere rivals that of its namesake in New York. Soho, London is a location that has taken on the persona of the people who frequent it and I don’t just mean the gay crowd, though they certainly enrich the borough. Soho is so much more than the stereotype of a few late licence gay bars and strip clubs. True - it has these in abundance - but it also has probably the best jazz clubs in the city and some of the tastiest restaurants, as well as some brilliant independent shops, bars and theatres.
We left Pall Mall Barbers on Friday evening after locking up and all decided to head out for a drink and a bite to eat to celebrate the beginning of the weekend. The West End had that brilliant buzz that you only get on a Friday night, where expectation is palpable and every vendor, busker and street performer is trying to capitalise on it. We decided to head for Soho. There are plenty of bars along Old Compton Street and the roads leading off it. To get to Soho from PMB is easy enough, though you have to be prepared to push your way through the heavy (touristy) crowds in Leicester Square and then China Town, before playing dodge-the-rickshaw on Shaftesbury Avenue, and entering the neighbourhood known as Soho, an area that opens up shop when the sun goes down. I don’t go to Soho frequently, so I wouldn’t say I have a regular bar. We tend to just roll up to one that looks crowded enough to have an atmosphere but not so crowded you get an elbow in the ear while you try and swig your drink.
Two drinks later and we all agreed on the need for a really good burger. So out we headed and made a beeline for Ed’s Diner. I know - I know it looks chintzy and touristy - but you can’t deny it makes a fabulous burger and what about the milkshakes! It’s definitely not the destination if you’re watching your figure; I’ve been known to polish off a burger, chilli fries, New York Cheesecake and two milkshakes in one sitting. On completion of a Big Bubba (bacon and cheese burger) and Banana and Peanut Butter milkshake, it seemed a waste to go home and allow the calories to take hold of our guts, so we decided to head to, in my opinion, the most prestigious and phenomenal music venue in all of central London - and I don’t mean the Royal Festival Hall - no, Ronnie Scott’s.
Ronnie Scott’s is a jazz club that opened in 1959, though it moved to its current location on Frith Street in 1965. It’s a low lit, low ceiling affair, created in the New York style which made jazz the famous music genre that it is today. If you’re a jazz musician you know you’re a contender if you’re on the Ronnie Scott’s bill. It’s a moody, no-nonsense venue - so much so that when it went through a massive refurbishment a few years ago, the Ronnie Scott’s faithful felt that, with the loss of its nicotine-stained ceilings and threadbare couches, it had become too clean and clinical. Thankfully the musical line-ups are as strong as they’ve ever been. The downside is the line-ups outside to get in. These days you normally have to book in advance (and at an astronomical fee at that). Fortunately for us we’re going to the late night slot and I know one of the musicians. When I say I know him, I know a friend of a friend of his, but it’s enough to get us in and a seat in the corner. You can tell a lot about a city from its live music scene. London is extensive, impressive and expensive. Still, as we sat there on Friday night - sorry Saturday morning - and listened to this up-and-coming, scarily young jazz quartet, I felt pretty damn lucky to live and work in this town.
So it’s 2am and we’re standing in the cold wet Soho morning. What do we do now? Catch a night bus home, try and a hail an altogether rare cab? – nah, it’s breakfast time at Balans on Old Compton Street. Probably my favourite eatery in Soho, especially now after its recent refurbishment. It’s open on Friday/Saturday from 8am to 6am and it’s where breakfast is frequently eaten with a cheeky cocktail. If you’re heading there at 2am like we did, don’t expect a quiet slumbering affair: 2am is rush hour at Balans and if you’re a big crowd you might have to wait for a table, but it’s worth it – trust me.
If you’re a tourist and looking for a great last night to your holiday, head to Soho. If you’re the unfortunate office employee put in charge of the Christmas party, head to Soho. If you’re new to London and looking for the best night life, head to Soho. Just remember, the friendly lady on Old Compton Street with the feather boa and the strong jaw line and conspicuous Adam’s apple is… always happy to show you a good time. Have Fun!
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