You see and hear a lot when you stand behind a barber’s chair. A lot of different people come in with a lot of different hair types and stories to tell, but of late I’ve noticed a paradox. It’s one that affects our work directly, but is in no way negative. Never before have our straight razor cuts been so popular. As demand has grown, we’ve had to expand our qualified shaving staff and our range of in-store wet shaves. Once upon a time a standard “Wet Shave” was all we offered; now we have, “The Traditional Wet Shave”, “The Luxury Wet Shave” and even “The D R Harris Wet Shave”. The paradox is that never before has the Beard been so popular. When I was a child few men seemed to have beards; my father was the exception. Beards back then were to be found on sailors and wannabe wizards. Now beards are chic – men of all ages, including those in their 20’s, are sporting beards. If you doubt how fashionable beards are just take a look at FCUK’s advertising campaign (the good looking rugged guys with the big beards). I know my girlfriend follows the campaign closely and not for the clothes!
What you need to understand however about beards is that you wear them in the same way you wear clothes. Your beard/facial hair needs to be groomed and fitted for your physique and style. Allowing your beard to grow by simply not shaving is, I’m afraid, a mistake – a common one to be sure, but nevertheless a mistake. After all your hair can grow from high on your cheek bones right down to your chest hair. You might want the rugged look but I doubt you want the yeti look. Hair on top of your head helps to frame the face; the beard does exactly the same lower down. You need to consider what you are trying to achieve. I myself wear a beard and I’ve experimented in lengths and shapes. If I let it grow too long it “rounds” the face and makes me look like I’m carrying weight in my cheeks and neck. Perversely if I keep it trim and close to the skin it hides what unwanted fat I have in these areas and helps me look trim. Some simple shaping also helps give a smart, sharp look. Shaving the beard on the neck to above the Adam’s Apple line will prevent you from looking like you’ve simply misplaced your razor and are in fact a well groomed, conscientious man. I can’t tell you exactly where that trim line should be as it differs from one beard to the next. I would strongly suggest getting your local barber to shape it for you and show you where best to trim from. The same rule applies at the top of the beard. I always bring my beard down under my cheekbones. This is to allow the cheekbones to stand out and ensure that my face retains distinction and prevent that rounded look we need to avoid. How far you bring the beard down depends purely on your taste. Recently I’ve seen a number of very low cut beards consisting of barely more than sideburns attached to a goatee with a thin trail of beard along the jaw line. Personally I’m more of the traditional type and keep the beard line running from the top of the ear to connect with the moustache.
In a nut shell there are no right or wrong ways to style your beard; it’s all down to taste, whether you’re of the Brad Pitt beard school or French rugby player Sebastian Chapel. But there is a right and wrong way to groom your beard. Remember you wear your beard in full view of everyone around you. Who knows who you’ll be bumping into today, so make sure your beard enhances your look. A beard is not just for lazy shavers.
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